6/15 Pelican
Sitting here at the tiny cafe in Pelican looking up at the cloud shrouded mountains and watching the constant drip running off everything in sight I can only laugh as the memory of the voice of a local in Ketchikanian echoes through my mind. While in Ketchikan we spent a couple of evenings at the local AA hall. The rooms were filled with men. Alaskan, tough guy, good ol boy, hunting and fishing and working hard kind of men. As in all AA meetings I have ever been to out of town they were warm and welcoming and full of questions about our planned trip as well as freely and warmly giving thoughts and suggestions about the local area. This one fellow looked at us and in a sort of Alaskan drawl asked us if we knew what it was we were in for as we traveled through "Southeast." "You do know its a rain forest, don't you?"
It has turned into a bit of a mantra for us as we move though the beauty of the area. Nearly everyday we find ourselves returning to that thought. Sometimes literally and sometimes in a laughing "well duh!" kind of reverence. Ketchikan receives 160 inches a year (read that as 13 + feet a year,) Juneau also receives a like amount except there more of it falls as snow because of their proximity to the great Juneau ice fields. We are now on the coast near Sitka just off the infamous Gulf of Alaska. As we got closer and closer to the coast the NOAA weather radio day after day consistently announced the current weather "Sitka, rain."
Coming from Seattle we are well set for the rain and we have a great dodger/bimini that closes us in pretty good even at the wheel. We have hot water and a working heater again. But, it gets a little tiring and the constant cold wears you out. Plus as I gaze out at the mountains and the sea looking for wildlife and vistas I find myself a bit irked that so much is cloaked from sight in the mist and waves. Nothing can beat a clear blue near windless day to spot bears and whales or even an occasional moose. ~sigh~
A couple of years ago as we made our way north towards the Queen Charlotte Islands we spoke with a man who told us in early July he had turned south out of Alaska in search of warm weather. Now I understand. We definitely want to make it Sitka but our chosen route takes us down the seldom traveled outer passage. There are spots to tuck in but at places there is nothing between you and the Gulf other than your rain gear.
A year or so ago Bill and I went to a movie, the plot had Sandra Bullock going to Sitka with her secretary whose family home was there. When they arrived they were ferried from the airport in a beautifully restored and highly varnished wood runabout. The scenery was stupendous, blue skies and flat water as they whisked to his parents estate worthy home.
Now, I have not been there yet but from what I have seen of southeast it is much more realistic to imagine them being picked up by an old friend garbed in rain gear and knee high rubber boots (Juneau tennis shoes?") They would be loaded in along with a large portion of the immediate family a neighbor or two and a dog into a big aluminum boat perhaps with a homemade pilot house precariously affixed as some protection from the elements that was loaded to the gunwhales with the monthly haul from costco. As they untied from the dock they would lift the kicker motor up (they fished on their way over) kicking in the dual Evanrude 250's and roaring out of the harbor towards home.
Instead of the "estate" the fictional family lived in they would pull up to 1/4 mile long dock winding across the mudflats that accommodates the huge tidal swings here. The home they pour into would be made up of loosely designed and seemingly randomly connected boxes and eaves and they would file through the open door to the mud room where they would dutifully hang up all their dripping rain gear and kick off all the rubber boots into a pile. To allude to the status and wealth of the family there would be bench seat available to slip into to help kick off those boots. I joke here, I love Alaska but it sure isn't Ballard and this isn't the movies.
I look forward to Sitka as I have to each new and unique Alaska destination but, Mexico is looking better and better all the time. Of course in Mexico I will rewrite the whole scenario featuring a panga, pseudo breezes so stifling hot they make you swoon and a language barrier that confuses every conversation and leaves you pantomiming every thought even to your husband.
Talk to you soon, Kat
6/6
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
6/15 Elfin Cove. AKA Shilshole North.
Yesterday we made our way from Glacier Bay to an enchanted little town called Elfin Bay. Elfin Bay can only be reached by sea plane or boat. There are no roads or cars in E.B. and all the "roads" are boardwalks winding through the woods and from islet to islet. The boardwalks in fact were paid for at least in part by Alaska highway funds. The houses and out building's placement is dictated by the natural topography built up over and around tree's, huge roots, boulders and bits of beach.
The year round population ranges from 9 to 22 depending on who you talk to. In summer the place fills with summer home owners, guests at the handful of fishing lodges and cruising boaters like us.
After a walk around town we had a quick lunch at Coho's Bar and Grill where we met the chef at one of the lodges. His name is Collin and he lives in Mount Lake Terrace. There is only one restaurant in E.B but Collin extended an invitation to the lodge for dinner as their latest charter group had left that morning and so he had room for dinner. Afterwards Bill and I were tucking in for a deserved nap when we heard a boat coming in. Looking out the window we recognised Ponderosa from E dock at Shilshole. We have been doggedly trying to catch up with Ponderosa and Panta Rei (F dock friends) since we left home 10days after their two boats departed. Both boats are also headed south to Mexico and on to the South Pacific as are we (Sherry and Bob on Ponderosa and Karen and Larry on Panta Rhei.)
We had a walk through the towns boardwalk with all of them and met an interesting local who regaled us with a one hour+ at times hysterical near monologue/tour of the town. Then thinking fast we tracked down Collin and asked if he had room for 6 instead of 2 for dinner! He happily he opened the doors wider coming up on the fly with a wonderful meal of fresh seafood chowder, a choice of Rib Eye or King Salmon, string beans with blue cheese and red onion, fresh shrimp rice pilaf and warm rolls. We were all in heaven catching up on our travels and travails in the warm dinning room of the big lodge-complete with a stunning view of the cove and the mouth of South Inian Strait. Hopefully the first of many meals together in the miles and months to come.
We knew Karen and Larry pretty well before from F dock but it was really our first chance to sit down with Sherry and Bob. Plus Panta Rhei and Ponderosa have taken an opposite path through Southeast so everyone was able to offer up tidbits on where they had been for those still on their way there. Navigational tips and where the best laundry is and other important cruisers trivia are always priceless commodities.
This morning we crept away from the dock while they were still sleeping (we needed to catch a tide) poked our nose out into the Gulf of Alaska for the first time and headed to Pelican. Pelican is a tiny town trying desperately not to die. Like many cannery towns of BC and Southeast the loss of the main employer has had a huge impact on Pelican. We have visited several of the coastal ghost towns as we moved north.
In Pelican when the fish processing plant closed it left a three distinct groups of people: 1)the locals who are devastated by unemployment, alcoholism and a struggle to build a new economic base, 2) the local natives who are devastated by the loss of employment, the loss of their historical fishery and rampant alcoholism and 3) the new locals with money enough to build their dream home and retire in the beauty of the place. As we walked through town pasted on the front screen door of a native home was a bumper sticker that read "I would rather my daughter be a whore than my son be a fishing guide." The as we walked the boardwalk through town we came upon a couple fighting loudly in the street. The interesting thing was not that they were arguing loudly in the middle of the day in the middle of the boardwalk in the middle of town about things "illegal" and one having "saved the other from a certain prison stay" or the expletive filled references to each others heritage, education and lack of reasoning and intention but, that they referered to each other as A)being a sorry excuse for a mayor and B) not any better for someone who is superintendent of schools." Welcome to Pelican!
Not to make light of it. The town is struggling and in a place where everyone lives along a 3/4 mile boardwalk who's front doors open facing each other in a town with only a post office, a marina, a cafe open till 3pm one fishing lodge/bar/restaurant and one roadhouse bar I suspect personalities rub regularly. We payed our morage at City Hall, were warmly welcomed at the diner and nearly everyone says hi and waves as we passed by.
The year round population ranges from 9 to 22 depending on who you talk to. In summer the place fills with summer home owners, guests at the handful of fishing lodges and cruising boaters like us.
After a walk around town we had a quick lunch at Coho's Bar and Grill where we met the chef at one of the lodges. His name is Collin and he lives in Mount Lake Terrace. There is only one restaurant in E.B but Collin extended an invitation to the lodge for dinner as their latest charter group had left that morning and so he had room for dinner. Afterwards Bill and I were tucking in for a deserved nap when we heard a boat coming in. Looking out the window we recognised Ponderosa from E dock at Shilshole. We have been doggedly trying to catch up with Ponderosa and Panta Rei (F dock friends) since we left home 10days after their two boats departed. Both boats are also headed south to Mexico and on to the South Pacific as are we (Sherry and Bob on Ponderosa and Karen and Larry on Panta Rhei.)
We had a walk through the towns boardwalk with all of them and met an interesting local who regaled us with a one hour+ at times hysterical near monologue/tour of the town. Then thinking fast we tracked down Collin and asked if he had room for 6 instead of 2 for dinner! He happily he opened the doors wider coming up on the fly with a wonderful meal of fresh seafood chowder, a choice of Rib Eye or King Salmon, string beans with blue cheese and red onion, fresh shrimp rice pilaf and warm rolls. We were all in heaven catching up on our travels and travails in the warm dinning room of the big lodge-complete with a stunning view of the cove and the mouth of South Inian Strait. Hopefully the first of many meals together in the miles and months to come.
We knew Karen and Larry pretty well before from F dock but it was really our first chance to sit down with Sherry and Bob. Plus Panta Rhei and Ponderosa have taken an opposite path through Southeast so everyone was able to offer up tidbits on where they had been for those still on their way there. Navigational tips and where the best laundry is and other important cruisers trivia are always priceless commodities.
This morning we crept away from the dock while they were still sleeping (we needed to catch a tide) poked our nose out into the Gulf of Alaska for the first time and headed to Pelican. Pelican is a tiny town trying desperately not to die. Like many cannery towns of BC and Southeast the loss of the main employer has had a huge impact on Pelican. We have visited several of the coastal ghost towns as we moved north.
In Pelican when the fish processing plant closed it left a three distinct groups of people: 1)the locals who are devastated by unemployment, alcoholism and a struggle to build a new economic base, 2) the local natives who are devastated by the loss of employment, the loss of their historical fishery and rampant alcoholism and 3) the new locals with money enough to build their dream home and retire in the beauty of the place. As we walked through town pasted on the front screen door of a native home was a bumper sticker that read "I would rather my daughter be a whore than my son be a fishing guide." The as we walked the boardwalk through town we came upon a couple fighting loudly in the street. The interesting thing was not that they were arguing loudly in the middle of the day in the middle of the boardwalk in the middle of town about things "illegal" and one having "saved the other from a certain prison stay" or the expletive filled references to each others heritage, education and lack of reasoning and intention but, that they referered to each other as A)being a sorry excuse for a mayor and B) not any better for someone who is superintendent of schools." Welcome to Pelican!
Not to make light of it. The town is struggling and in a place where everyone lives along a 3/4 mile boardwalk who's front doors open facing each other in a town with only a post office, a marina, a cafe open till 3pm one fishing lodge/bar/restaurant and one roadhouse bar I suspect personalities rub regularly. We payed our morage at City Hall, were warmly welcomed at the diner and nearly everyone says hi and waves as we passed by.
Monday, June 14, 2010
6/13 Hoonah and Glacier Bay
We arrived today back in Hoonah from our weeks stay in Glacier Bay. The weather cooperated for the first few days while we checked in at the Park and saw our first glaciers.
Our trip from Hoonah to Glacier Bay was filled with wildlife. There were whales off in the distance all across Icy Strait and several puffins. Then we began to see the sea otters. They were everywhere on our crossing and throughout the lower part of the park. They are a little shy and hard to get too close to. But they do a funny little head stretch up out of the water when they want to take a look at you, sort of like a prairie dog coming up out of his hole.
The views were amazing in the bright sunlight. Mountains farther than the eye can see. We spent one night anchored right at the base of Reid Glacier. The winds at a glacier are interesting. They come rolling down off the glacier faces with gusto. The wind blew a steady strong blow with little variation on strentgth or direction. No flutter or winding just a straight down your throat blow. It was steady thru the aftenoon all through the night. In the wee hours of the morning there was a lull but by the time we pulled anchor at 630am it was blowing straight off the face the same strong steady ~cold~ blow.
The next morning we headed farther "up bay" to John Hopkins Glacier in John Hopkins Inet and further north into Tarr Inlet where it terminates at both Grand Pacific Glacier and Margorie Glacier. We couldnt get very close to John Hopkins because of a seasonal closure for seal pupping but at Marjorie we were able to get up quite close to the glacier face.
It isnt wise to get too close though as the face is constantly calcing off pieces into Tarr Inlet. We spent quiet a while working our way up and drifting with the current down along the face while listening to the cracking and booming of the face. Sometimes it sounds like a gun shot or an explosion and though we were seemingly close to the face in reality we were at such a distance that by the time the sound could reach our ears the ice was in or nearly into the bay.
We has met another sailing couple back in Prince Rupert on "High Maintanance Too" who took a expedition cruise to the face of Marjorie and saw us there (we had no idea they were there) they took some photos as we were setting sale away fromthe face from the deck of the expedition boat. They ran into us again at Hoonah and brought over two pictures of Island Bound undersail in front of the glacier!
After the glaciers we took a break and spent two night at Blue Mouse Cove. The weather began to change but I wanted to get some more kayaking in and was hoping to see some wildlife. From Blue Mouse Cove it is possible to go thru a cut into a wilderness area that is closed to all motorized vehicles. We set off in the afternoon and the weather was holding so (at my suggestion) we decided once we were out of the cut to make a loop around and back in the second cut that we had been able to see from our boat earlier. Unfortunatly neither of us had taken a close look at the chart before setting out on this expedition. What looked like a short loop out and back in turned into a three hour haul. The tide changed, from slack to against us, the wind came up, the no see ums followed us in clouds and the boat was no where in site. When we finally rounded yet another point and using the binoculars were finally able to see Island Bound off in the distance I am not sure which of us was more relieved. I suspect Bill was getting more worried than he let on and my tennis elbow had been shrieking at me for a long time. Next time we will make a better plan. It was actually quite stupid but seemed so simple at the time. It is exactly how people end up in dire straits in the wilderness. We were never really in any danger but I was begining to get seriously worried.
The weather continued to turn nastier and nastier. After Blue Mouse Cove we headed up the east arm of Glacier Bay towards Muir Glacier but the weather turned us back. We spent two night in the rain and wind at North Sandy Cove then our park pass was up and it was time to go. Again through the lower part of the park we saw whales and pufins and otters. I saw my first sleeping whale in the park...they are just there, barely moving at the surface. Slow breaths and no diving....we came quite close to one before we could see well enough to realize it was a whale. Then as we were leaving the park three big whales surfaced quite near our boat.....all three abreast close enough to see the barnicles. I could clearly see the closest ones tail fins and they slipped below on a shallow breath right under the starboard side of the boat. I was surprised that we took them by surprise assuming they would know right where we were but it sure seemed like we were a surprise.
Back in Hoonah now to do some laundry and get a few groceried then off to Sitka and hopefully to the hotsprings. kat
Friday, June 4, 2010
Yeah we have heat!!!!!
Oh Happy Day!
Bill is the King of mechanics and a world class figurer-outer. We now have heat and hot water and the little outboard works too.
We pulled into Juneau Tuesday after a bit of re-planning. It turns out there is a fixed bridge across Gasteneau Channel from Juneau to Douglas. The bridge is 50ft tall per the book and 68ft tall per the harbor master (at a zero tide.) We are 63 feet tall and it wasn't low tide. So we are in a slip in Douglas on the south side of the bridge. it is actually quite lovely and not the cruise ship hell that Juneau can be this time of year. Douglas is quiet and rural and there are no amenities really. There is water and power at the docks but no shower, no grocery, no laundry. Juneau is 3 miles away.
We were her no more than 10 minutes when a fellow on the dock came and introduced himself. His name is Jack and he lives aboard here in Douglas. (Great town.) He has been a wealth of information and also immediately offered the use of the washer and dryer at his daughter Shannons' house a few blocks away. So our first night here I took my little cart full of laundry to Shannons' while Bill fixed the outboard.
As i walked out of the marina parking lot a woman stopped and asked if I needed a ride. (Great town.) After telling her I only had a few blocks to go she insisted so off we went. She helped me find the house....907 was all I knew and dropped me there. I knocked on the door and a sort of bleary eyed man answered. I told him that "Jack sent me to do laundry at his daughters house. (I didn't yet have her name.) He looked at me oddly and then said with a note of bewilderment "my dryer doesn't even work." Turns out I was at the wrong 907. Then I stumbled and knocked over my cart and spilled liquid laundry detergent all over the grass at the bottom of his steps. I stuttered and fumbled and tried to insist on cleaning it up. After protest he went into the house and came out with one paper towel (this is about 2 cups of goo) still insisting that I needn't bother. I kept protesting that rain was coming and that he would soon have three feet of suds in his driveway but he didn't seem worried so off I went. (Great town)
I soon found the right place and was introduced to Shannon who was in the process of moving out of her house with her son Jack. She told me I was welcome and set about finishing her packing and left me there with the laundry in the dryer and the remote control to her big TV. She also gave me her number and said we were welcome to use the place all we wanted...laundry, showers whatever. (Great town.)
Wednesday we set off early by bus into down town Juneau to find the shipping office where our heater parts had been sent to. After working our way around we found the address but there was no shipping office there The shop next door said it had gone out of business more than a year ago. OK, so now we were on foot in down town with no idea where our package was. We first looked for the alternative shop that had taken over some of their business but they weren't open for another 1 1/2 hours. So we hit the pay phone to try and track the package down. Amazingly it only took one call to find out where they had shipped it. It had been sent to UPS as an alternate but when we called them they are only open for business from 9 to 10 am and they are 12 miles out of town in the "valley." The UPS guy said he would be there at 5pm if we wanted to come and pick it up then....so OK. We had some time to wander old town and buy a few t-shirts and I was able to hit a noon AA meeting (Great Town) and then grocery shop before working our way by bus back to the boat and then out to the "Valley."
We didn't know how long it would take by bus or how far we would have to walk from the bus line so off we went. Riding the bus in a strange place is a great way to get to know a town and an even better way to talk with the locals. The problem is that about the time you figure it all out it is time to head to another place. SO, we missed our stop and arrived more than an hour early and were left to sit in the cold wind in the concrete doorway of the local UPS center. But as I write this in our warm and snug cabin, squeaky clean after a hot shower it was worth every mile.
After we were done installing the parts this morning we went into Juneau and attended "Celebration." Its a once every two year gathering of all most of the separate native groups from around Alaska. They come form all around state in their regalia and have 4 days have singing and dancing (the little kids were soooo cute.) There was was Indian fry bread and a juried art show and an exhibition hall with native crafts people. The best part was all the native costumes. I missed a great photo op later while we were waiting for the bus. A couple of native women came by...all dressed in their finery -button blankets sweeping the ground, seal skin boots.....carrying a paper holder full of coffee drinks from local coffee stand back to "Celebration." Old meets new! Wish I had captured the shot.
Tomorrow we leave Juneau and head to Glacier Bay. We were very lucky to score a park pass by phone. We weren't sure we could go because you have to have a permit and we knew we couldn't arrange one until we got close. They only give out 25 permits. 25 boats total not per day. Staggering them as they come and go over their allotted 7 days. They pre-book 15 and then give out 10 on short notice. We were able to slide in on a 6 day pass - if we can check in by 6/7 at 1000am. Its a two day trip, then we have to find an anchorage just outside of the park in order to be there for an orientation at 1000am. If we miss orientation they give our spot away to someone on the standby list. Happily it should be a simple two days there basking in the glory of our warm cabin!
Thursday, June 3, 2010
5/31 Sawyer Glacier
One full month off the dock today. We passed the 57th parallel as we moved up Tracy Arm to North and South Sawyer Glaciers. It was a 21km one way trip and we knew if the ice was too thick we might not make it to the glacier face. The high cliffs all around us were wonderful. Waterfalls crashing towards the sea from what seemed like miles above. The powers that had passed by millions of years ago slowly grinding and pushing and growing huge chasms and fissures in solid rock is mind boggling.
North Sawyer Glacier has retreated well onto land but we passed it on our port side as we slowly made our way towards the face of South Sawyer Glacier. It was weird really. Being on your own boat working your way slowly through cliffs and ice bergs. The bergs getting thicker and thicker.
Bright white bergs, glowing blue bergs and thousands of small bergie bits. It took us 6 hours to go 21 km. We were passed by two cruise ships and one expedition boat all likely coming from Juneau. As we got within sight of the glacier it seemed that we couldn't make it further. The pieces were bigger and closer together...we could hear them banging against the hull. The guide book suggested you post a look out on the bow with a boat hook to push away the bergs but the ones that were small enough to push didnt really matter and the ones that needed pushing wouldnt budge. The expedition boat passed us at about 8k off to our starboard side, hugging close to the cliff as we were reaching the end of our ability to move through the ice. It looked like there was a path along the cliff and he made it wider so we slipped in behind him and worked farther up.
The huge cruise ship that had passed us earlier just slowed down to almost nothing and pushed through. But the ice filled in so fast behind it that following it was not really an option plus following it close would mean we would only have a birds eye view of the ass end of a cruise ship. So we worked our way over behind the smaller excursion boat and slipped into the empty spaces he left in his wake.
By this time we had worked close enough we could see the glacier face pretty well. There was one large piece that calved off as we approached but we were still at a safe distance. Many of the pieces floating by had a seal pup or two that mom had stashed while she fished. They just stared at us as we passed by. The ice is startlingly beautiful. The shapes and sizes are endless. There was an odd familiarity to them. At a glance they reminded me of a thousand origami animals floating in the current. Large and small peace cranes and dragons and birds of every design. And every piece slowly changing into something new as the vantage point shifted. And the noise! I never imagined that the ice bergs would make so much noise. A constant rush of clicking and sloshing and splashing and dripping as they all swirled and ebbed along the currents and with the motion of the passing boats.
Eventually the ice got too thick (and Kat got more worried) so we turned around and headed back towards our anchorage. It was an awesome experince, the sun stayed with us all day inspite of the forcast and we even spotted a couple of humbacks on our way to and again home from the glacier. We are both tired.....all that work keeping Island Bound safe...tomorrow we head to Juneau.
North Sawyer Glacier has retreated well onto land but we passed it on our port side as we slowly made our way towards the face of South Sawyer Glacier. It was weird really. Being on your own boat working your way slowly through cliffs and ice bergs. The bergs getting thicker and thicker.
Bright white bergs, glowing blue bergs and thousands of small bergie bits. It took us 6 hours to go 21 km. We were passed by two cruise ships and one expedition boat all likely coming from Juneau. As we got within sight of the glacier it seemed that we couldn't make it further. The pieces were bigger and closer together...we could hear them banging against the hull. The guide book suggested you post a look out on the bow with a boat hook to push away the bergs but the ones that were small enough to push didnt really matter and the ones that needed pushing wouldnt budge. The expedition boat passed us at about 8k off to our starboard side, hugging close to the cliff as we were reaching the end of our ability to move through the ice. It looked like there was a path along the cliff and he made it wider so we slipped in behind him and worked farther up.
The huge cruise ship that had passed us earlier just slowed down to almost nothing and pushed through. But the ice filled in so fast behind it that following it was not really an option plus following it close would mean we would only have a birds eye view of the ass end of a cruise ship. So we worked our way over behind the smaller excursion boat and slipped into the empty spaces he left in his wake.
By this time we had worked close enough we could see the glacier face pretty well. There was one large piece that calved off as we approached but we were still at a safe distance. Many of the pieces floating by had a seal pup or two that mom had stashed while she fished. They just stared at us as we passed by. The ice is startlingly beautiful. The shapes and sizes are endless. There was an odd familiarity to them. At a glance they reminded me of a thousand origami animals floating in the current. Large and small peace cranes and dragons and birds of every design. And every piece slowly changing into something new as the vantage point shifted. And the noise! I never imagined that the ice bergs would make so much noise. A constant rush of clicking and sloshing and splashing and dripping as they all swirled and ebbed along the currents and with the motion of the passing boats.
Eventually the ice got too thick (and Kat got more worried) so we turned around and headed back towards our anchorage. It was an awesome experince, the sun stayed with us all day inspite of the forcast and we even spotted a couple of humbacks on our way to and again home from the glacier. We are both tired.....all that work keeping Island Bound safe...tomorrow we head to Juneau.
5/30 Ice Bergs!
We left Cannery Cove in Pybus Bay early this morning after taking a day off to just relax. The crabbing didn't pan out but the kayaking was good. We went in on low tide and dug clams and mussels for dinner. Were a little concerned about PSP (paralytic shellfish poisoning) so Bill had a bite or two first....then waited a few hours. He didn't die so sauted them up!
It has been absolutley glorious weather for several days. A little foggy early but cleared off to t-shirt weather. Which is good since we still have no heater. Dug out the solar shower bag and had lovely warm showers. Wasnt expecting to use it until we headed south so it was way down deep in the v-birth but worth the unpacking.
Oh and we saw whales today! They were some bit away but always worth the time to ogle. Now we sit at Tracy Arm Cove at the opening of Tracy Arm from Holkam Bay and from the cockpit asIi write this I can see icebergs floating by! We spotted them as we were closing in on the entrance. Not sure at first if we were really seeing them or not. They are beautiful and we suspect they are just the beginning. We even heard one crack and tumble a bit off into the bay. Even the small ones are loud. There is something rather weird in being in your own boat in waters with ice bergs. Like maybe this isn't quite right. (Think Titanic.) But we will be cautious and see how close we can get to Sawyer Glaciers tomorrow. Sometimes the ice is too thick to make it to the glaciers themselves. Will let you know how it goes.
It has been absolutley glorious weather for several days. A little foggy early but cleared off to t-shirt weather. Which is good since we still have no heater. Dug out the solar shower bag and had lovely warm showers. Wasnt expecting to use it until we headed south so it was way down deep in the v-birth but worth the unpacking.
Oh and we saw whales today! They were some bit away but always worth the time to ogle. Now we sit at Tracy Arm Cove at the opening of Tracy Arm from Holkam Bay and from the cockpit asIi write this I can see icebergs floating by! We spotted them as we were closing in on the entrance. Not sure at first if we were really seeing them or not. They are beautiful and we suspect they are just the beginning. We even heard one crack and tumble a bit off into the bay. Even the small ones are loud. There is something rather weird in being in your own boat in waters with ice bergs. Like maybe this isn't quite right. (Think Titanic.) But we will be cautious and see how close we can get to Sawyer Glaciers tomorrow. Sometimes the ice is too thick to make it to the glaciers themselves. Will let you know how it goes.
5/27 Finally! We are really in Alaska
Finally! We really are in Alaska. We stopped early at McHenry anchorage to enjoy the afternoon of good weather but discovered that our little dingy outboard wasnt working - at all. So instead we spent the afternoon in vain tearing it apart. But after that headache we were rewarded with our first whale. A great big humpback just off our starboard side. He was feeding with long slow rolls in the current leading up to Snow Passage.
Later in the day we navigated our way through the infamous Wrangell narrows. The narrows is 21 miles long and has more than 60 navigational aids to lead you through. The big cruise ships don't go through Wrangell Narrows but the smaller ones do and working tugs and cargo boats do as well. The guide books painted it as a very intricate and sometimes harrowing route and warn of keeping a lookout behind as the cruise ships sneak up on you and speed passed extremely close. The route really wasn't that tough. Long and intricate but really just a series of bouys and range marks leading you along without difficulty. At the end of the pass we spent the night right off the narrows in a little indentation called Scow bay. Nothing much to write about it was like being anchored off a loading dock but was out of the traffic and well staged for entering Fredrick Sound.
We left early in the morning to stay out of potential high winds. We were slowly chugging along north of Petersburg when I casually said to Bill. What kind of a bird is that. Its sure a big bird. A really big bird...Ii could see the odd little wake it was leaving and something just didn't look right. It wasn't, it was a deer. A little guy still wearing his spots. There was a small island off our starboard side and it looked like he was heading across to a larger island. As we slowed to take pictures he turned to avoid us and passed right behind the boat. As we were still staring open mouthed in wonder we saw a scrimmage line of small boats speeding towards us. There was a big salmon derby for the Memorial Day weekend and the starting clock must have just chimed because there was a whole pack of them racing to their favorite hole. We were too far off to see but wondered just how much of a gauntlet the little fellow had to run.
After, as we headed to the top of Frederick Sound we saw our first glacier in the distance. The waters open up from Frederick Sound into the bottom of Stephens passage. and along Admiralty Island. It is a large deep body of water that is ringed by mountains in every direction. It was a gloriously sunny day. Blue sky, warmth, mountains glowing in the sun light or seeming to float in a shimmer of cold hazy air in the far distance. As we crossed the widest part to the anchorage we were headed to we found the Humpbacks. Lots. Not sure how many where there but at one point we could hear them breathing there loud exclamations of air all around us. There was at least one calf with mom who was gargantuan. We slowed the boat to a crawl watching them rise and roll and dive. Turning ourselves in circles on the deck again and again as the sound of their breath spun us around and around and back again.
After that there wasn't much that could make a better day - until we chugged into Cannery Cove for the night. The cove is large and very protected. With a large drying flat at the head opening up into a bowl that spills from a huge snowy mountainside. The sounds of the water falls came floating across the cove as the sun moved over the highest snow covered hill. The drying flat was full of birds and looked like prime bear country.
After anchoring we broke out the new kayaks for the first time on the trip and soon were paddling off to investigate. The kayaks were a treat and great to finally get them out of their bags. It was an interesting prospect though. Trying to figure out how to get off the boat into an inflatable kayak that was new to us. We weren't sure of the mechanics of it or how steady they would be. The boat of course is quite a ways off the water. We use a fender step tied low to get in and out of the dingy but stepping down into a kayak that might fold in two? Well they didn't fold and in fact are pretty stable. We lowered the dingy into the water so we could climb in it first but i decided to try wedging my kayak between the boat and the dinghy and just....step......in.........Well neither one of us ended up in the drink and I can already tell they are going to be great fun.
Tomorrow morning early we are going to try and slip quietly into them and head into the cove for some wild life viewing then if the tide is out far enough there looked to be some good sandy ground so we will try our hands at digging a pail of manila clams. This is the Alaska I was hoping for.
Later in the day we navigated our way through the infamous Wrangell narrows. The narrows is 21 miles long and has more than 60 navigational aids to lead you through. The big cruise ships don't go through Wrangell Narrows but the smaller ones do and working tugs and cargo boats do as well. The guide books painted it as a very intricate and sometimes harrowing route and warn of keeping a lookout behind as the cruise ships sneak up on you and speed passed extremely close. The route really wasn't that tough. Long and intricate but really just a series of bouys and range marks leading you along without difficulty. At the end of the pass we spent the night right off the narrows in a little indentation called Scow bay. Nothing much to write about it was like being anchored off a loading dock but was out of the traffic and well staged for entering Fredrick Sound.
We left early in the morning to stay out of potential high winds. We were slowly chugging along north of Petersburg when I casually said to Bill. What kind of a bird is that. Its sure a big bird. A really big bird...Ii could see the odd little wake it was leaving and something just didn't look right. It wasn't, it was a deer. A little guy still wearing his spots. There was a small island off our starboard side and it looked like he was heading across to a larger island. As we slowed to take pictures he turned to avoid us and passed right behind the boat. As we were still staring open mouthed in wonder we saw a scrimmage line of small boats speeding towards us. There was a big salmon derby for the Memorial Day weekend and the starting clock must have just chimed because there was a whole pack of them racing to their favorite hole. We were too far off to see but wondered just how much of a gauntlet the little fellow had to run.
After, as we headed to the top of Frederick Sound we saw our first glacier in the distance. The waters open up from Frederick Sound into the bottom of Stephens passage. and along Admiralty Island. It is a large deep body of water that is ringed by mountains in every direction. It was a gloriously sunny day. Blue sky, warmth, mountains glowing in the sun light or seeming to float in a shimmer of cold hazy air in the far distance. As we crossed the widest part to the anchorage we were headed to we found the Humpbacks. Lots. Not sure how many where there but at one point we could hear them breathing there loud exclamations of air all around us. There was at least one calf with mom who was gargantuan. We slowed the boat to a crawl watching them rise and roll and dive. Turning ourselves in circles on the deck again and again as the sound of their breath spun us around and around and back again.
After that there wasn't much that could make a better day - until we chugged into Cannery Cove for the night. The cove is large and very protected. With a large drying flat at the head opening up into a bowl that spills from a huge snowy mountainside. The sounds of the water falls came floating across the cove as the sun moved over the highest snow covered hill. The drying flat was full of birds and looked like prime bear country.
After anchoring we broke out the new kayaks for the first time on the trip and soon were paddling off to investigate. The kayaks were a treat and great to finally get them out of their bags. It was an interesting prospect though. Trying to figure out how to get off the boat into an inflatable kayak that was new to us. We weren't sure of the mechanics of it or how steady they would be. The boat of course is quite a ways off the water. We use a fender step tied low to get in and out of the dingy but stepping down into a kayak that might fold in two? Well they didn't fold and in fact are pretty stable. We lowered the dingy into the water so we could climb in it first but i decided to try wedging my kayak between the boat and the dinghy and just....step......in.........Well neither one of us ended up in the drink and I can already tell they are going to be great fun.
Tomorrow morning early we are going to try and slip quietly into them and head into the cove for some wild life viewing then if the tide is out far enough there looked to be some good sandy ground so we will try our hands at digging a pail of manila clams. This is the Alaska I was hoping for.
5/22 Prince Rupert to Ketchikan
- We motored in to Ketchikan the afternoon of the 22nd after spending 4 nights in Prince Rupert. The stay in PR was longer than we would have chosen but first we had to trouble shoot the heater problem then make arrangements for the heater parts to be sent on to Ketchikan. By that time a storm front had rolled in and we were stuck there until it passed. So we wandered around PR, took in the museum, did a few odd jobs and projects and celebrated my birthday early. For my birthday I got a lovely pair of rubber ankle boots, lime green with blue and pink flowers. They are so ugly they are almost cute. But not quite. But they will keep my feet dry for the rest of the trip without causing me to stumble up and down the companion way stairs as my big rubber boots seemed to do. Something about the extra size of boots makes me all stumbly. Or perhaps it is just my normal clumsiness. Bill also managed to sneak in some birthday shopping and presented me with a baseball hat that says "spank me I've been nautical." It goes well with my new boots.
We made arrangements with customs to stop at Foggy Bay on our way from PR to Ketchikan. It is unlawful to stop anywhere inside of AK without first clearing customs in Ketchikan unless you prearrange a stop over in Foggy Bay. It made for two relatively short days for us instead of one long one. Foggy Bay was quiet. We were alone when we arrived but were joined by two other boats later in the day. Then off to AK!
AK is different. Big. Very big. BC has a lot of wild territory and empty anchorages when you are not in the popular areas like Desolation Sound but as soon as we were in AK it was as if someone just enlarged the horizon. The hills are taller, the mountains off in the distance in every direction and there are rocks and small islands everywhere. It made me thankful we have done all the sailing we have prior to this to know our navigational skills are up to par. There is lots see and do in AK and lots of things to run onto if one isn't careful. We still have not seen any marine mammals to speak of. It is a bit disappointing to me but I am ever hopeful that today will be the day!
We lucked out on arrival in Ketchikan as a customs official was on the dock we pulled into looking for another boat. He saw our bright red Hydro vane wind vane from afar and thought we were a foreign flagged vessel so came over to investigate. So we had cleared through Customs almost before we had the lines tied. He was even able to give us directions to the freight company we needed to find to pick up our heater parts. Unfortunately the parts had not arrived and it is Saturday so we are here at least until Monday when hopefully we can install the parts and make sure they are the fix we are hoping for.
It is wonderfully sunny here and the long underwear and sweaters are in the laundry to be done before we leave. The weather still has been quite nice for us, barely any rain underway. But I did give some thought to my next birthday which should either be French Polynesia or Central America. Both would be much warmer environs. It was a happy thought. I will turn 50 some where warm and likely we will have made some cruising friends by then too. Kat
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
5/13 The old Cannery
Today we motored to Shearwater/Bella Bella. A completely uneventful day. No wild life, nor marine life, 2 boats seen. A USCG cutter and a ferry/cruise ship. Last time we were in Shearwater it was July and the place was hopping. Today two other cruise boats here and there isnt even a wharffinger. In fact the whole wharfinger houseboat is gone. There was though still an eagle that one of the local feeds every night. He came swooping in for tuna. The giant bird sees him in his white overalls, lights in a tree, then when the food is placed on the picnic table he swoops down and off he goes.
Day before yesterday was a long day. We made it around Cape Caution. Long day but we were able to sail. Yea! Still no sea mammals sighted. We anchored at a place called Goose Neck Bay, the sight of an old cannery. There was one other sailboat there when we arrived. A bit after we got settled a man from the old cannery came out, Mark, and introduced himself and invited us in to see the cannery. We were so tired we just couldn't do it. 10 hours around Cape C and we were tuckered out.
The next morning though we were all dressed in our warm clothes and ready to head out when we heard the weather, 30mph in the strait. We decided to stay put. A bit later in the morning, while the second batch of home made bread of the trip was rising the fellow on the only other boat in the bay rowed over and offered us some fresh crab. Nice older fellow. On his way solo "north." He gave us three crab which I quickly dispatched and plunged into a cooking pot. So spent the day baking bread and cookies and cleaning,cooking and cracking 3 big dungeoness crab.
In the afternoon after a few chores we took a dingy ride around the bay. There were bald eagles, some sort of osprey or golden eagle and a sea lion that followed us around the bay for a bit. Never too close but right off our tail. Once round the bay we stopped at the cannery and were met by Dave. Turns out he was the original instigator for getting a group of 20 Burnaby firemen to all go in on the old delapitated cannery. They have spent the last 7 years rebuilding walkways and dock areas and are now working on a caretakers loft.
Dave gave us a great tour of the place. Lots of history and info. When the canneries closed usually what they did was just pack up the men and lock the doors and go. Everything else stayed right where it was sitting. The firemen have done a bunch of rebuilding and shoring up and such but for the most part it is exactly as they found it. Complete with cook house, old chairs and couches, a pool table and shuffle board, a laundry room and dozens of cabins and dormitory rooms. He said the place is basically just for the firemen and their families. They come every year for work parties and then they come in the summer with kids and parents and all.
He was a wealth of information and it is just too bad we didn't have more time to pick his brain for local attractions. He did tell us about the big ol grizzly bear that was joined one spring by a sow who left her two year old cubs across a creek. And about a place nearby where there is an old fish camp complete with ancient native skeletons laying out on slabs amidst the boulders. Sounds cool though sort of creepy. He said there are places all over the coast where there are old native sites that are not in the books;pictographs and burial sights and middens and entire abandoned camps. We will keep our eyes open but we could spend a whole summer in the area and not stumble on the stuff this guy knows about. Nice folks all around and we wish the Burnaby firemen much luck and long summer days to enjoy.
5/10/10 First black bear of the trip.
Traveled well up Johnstone Strait till a turn off towards Port Harvey. Was a long day, more than 9 hours on the water. The strait was fine for a long time but about 2 started kicking p. By the time we pulled off to Boughey Bay off the Port Harvey cut off it was blowing 25. Immediately after pulling off the strait it got quiet. A 3 1/2 mile trip inland to secluded silent Boughey Bay. I had begun my bear watch earlier in the day sure that we were in bear country. As we pulled into Boughey I was at the bow getting ready to anchor and I saw a black spot. One of hundreds I had checked out that day. Then it moved. A nice, fat, lumbering black bear. He didn't seem to pay us any mind even when we pulled the anchor in to reset. This morning at 6am as we took off he was there again but more conservative in his sleepiness, He lumbered off as soon as Bill got on deck.
This morning we are off to the North through Blackfish Ssound. Going first past Robson Bight were the whales rub their bellies. We wont get close enough to see any belly rubs but maybe we may see some in transit nearby.
5/9/10 Miss my mom!
Happy Mothers Day. The first mothers day in my life away from my mom. I cant even really think about it too much or I start to cry. Better not to go there now. I did send a card from Friday Harbor and it should have gotten there in plenty of time.
After leaving Nanaimo relatively late we headed north along the east coast of Vancouver Island (the west side of the straits of Georgia. We didn't leave Nanaimo until after 11 so we didn't make it too far. We motored to Hornby Island and stayed at the same big bay we stayed on last time we came through here. Last time we ran into a pod of orcas right off the anchorage, no such luck this time. Also last time we were there the bay was full. Many many boats, lots of people playing on the beach and in the water. We took a short walk towards the campground and found a small town with a summer market that was bustling. This year there was only one other boat and we didn't even get close to them. We anchored using our new anchor. Yea! and had a good rest, The next morning we were up early and there was no wind so we decided to work on our main sail reef. We barely got the sail on before we left and we hadn't had a chance to make adjustments to the new reefs.
We left and headed north again with our eyes on Campbell River. We have never been along this eastern coast so it was all new. The weather was warm and sunny and we just put putted along. Just past Campbell River is Seymour Narrows of the famous now blown up Ripple Rock. The tides are pretty heavy duty and we just missed being able to get through. We should have done our sail work later. Oh well. We stayed the night at April Point Cove surrounded by a scattering of houses and a couple of fishing lodges and such. When i first dropped the anchor it didn't set so I brought it up. When it was within sight I noticed the shackle' was twisted oddly so I called Bill up and went to the helm. What I didn't see but Bill saw was we also had a cable across our anchor. Oops! We didn't see the cable sign at all until later. Even then it showed it in an odd place. Well no one came out to kick our ass and the RCMP didn't show up so we apparently didn't sever anything but it reminds us to be more careful. Even the books didn't show the cable run.
This morning we were up and headed to the narrows at 730. The narrows didn't amount to much and we saw only one other boat. It is so early in the season. Now we are nearly half way up Johnstone Strait the notorious "high wind area." There is little wind and no waves to speak of. I even managed to clean the whole boat and take a hand at the helm for an hour or so. Also got a chance to go through the book on our chart plotter. Frankly charts seem better.
5/7/10 anchors away! (literally)
Haven't written since leaving Pt T. From there we motored to Friday Harbor where we waited out a blow. We ended up spending two nights while the wind blew to 35 0r 40. Nothing really of mention at Fr H except I made it to an AA meeting, The 514 &389. Lovely meeting where they used a pack of cards, 52 AA big book questions. it was interesting and there was good sobriety in the room. I have managed to spend a half hour or so each day that we are underway reading grapevine and contemplating recovery.
After froday harbor we headed to BC where we cleared customs in Sydney then moved on to Montague Harbor for the night. We have been there before but both times later in the season. The place was essentially deserted. We were planning on going farther but the rain was imminent and we hadn't used our new Rocna anchor yet so we decided to anchor at Montague in the daylight for our first anchoring of the trip. The Rocna preformed startelingly well. I was at the winch and let out the chain. When we had about 125ft of chain out we backed up. Sowly. The chain tightened and then we snapped around hooked and set.!!
From Montague we headed through Discovery Passage at 5am headed for somewhere North. It had already been a long day when about 1pm we lost the new anchor. Yep, the winds were 15-20 and the waves were steep. Tide was changing we were burying the bow of the boat over and over. Stuff shaking loose. I was watching as the anchor plowed through the waves thinking that it was scooping too deep and wondering if we had it secured well enough. The next instant,it was just gone. Gone, gone, gone. Off the bow roller and traveling fast dow 400plus feet. It was startleing. This was a brand new 88# anchor. We installed it right before we left. We used the seizing wire from the old anchor with every intention of replacing it with new. Expensive mistake and frankly a little embarassing. The wire had worked loose on the shackle and off it went. An expensive mistake, lesson learned.
We had been hoping for a long day to put some miles behind us, aiming for Comox when we detoured to Nanimo hoping we could find an anchor. Any anchor. We stayed at the boat basin at 57$ a night that we wernt planning on spending. There was a marine store a 5 minute walk into town and amazingly they had Rocnas. But not one large enough for our boat. But after a telephone call there was one on its way to arrive friday morning. We decided two nights was worth having a decent anchor for the rest of the trip and so stayed another night. We kept busy with projects, Bill put our new locks on and I worked on a second set of sheets for our bed.
This mornig bright an early we were at the marine store shelling out $1000.00 we hadnt counted on spending. Aproximatly $1200.00 unplanned dollars spent in Nanimo. Oh well, an expensive lesson. The new anchor is chained and tied and wired and.....and we are motoring ever northward towards Campbell river. The weather is actually quite nice, blue sky and not as cold.
A little behind our predeicted schedule. I miss my dog immensly and I keep thinking maybe I am home sick. If one can be such just a few days from home. Maybe anticipatory homesickness? later.
'
5/2/2010 We did it!
Well everyone its official. We are full time cruisers! 5years almost to the day from when we bought Island Bound we left our home slip at Shilshole headed north. Mom met us for breakfast as did my dear friend Barbara. When we got back to the boat it only took a few minutes and a load of hugs and goodbyes with friends before we threw off the lines for the last time. At the last minute we added a new crew member a small teddy bear that belonged to my brother. I know he would be thrilled with this trip. The little bear has found a lovely spot in the salon with a view up into the cockpit. (I'll take good care of him mom.)
Our first day out was uneventful. The weather was grey and overcast breaking to sun part way and turning into a lovely sunny spring day in Pt Townsend by the time we docked at 2. The only problem we had was a slight leak at a deisel tank connection that was quickly solved with a couple of hose clamps. We met an old friend in the evening and picked up a couple of folding bikes we had recently purchased on craigs list from a seller in PT. Jum picked them up and ferried them to us at the marina in his motorcycle with side car. We took a quick ride to test them out. They need a little TLC and it felt a bit like Homer Simpson riding a clown bike but a few seat and handle bar adjustments and well, it was soon like riding a bike!
After breakfast with Jim we took off across the straits where right now the weather is better than forcast. We arnt sure where we will stop...going to go with the flow for a few days. We wont bore you with the day to day but will be posting on our blog whenever we have anything of interest to share. You can reach us there at ........
svislandbound.blogspot.com
Or via our emails which we will be catching up with in bits and spurts along the way.
Bill endlessbull@gmail.com
Kat sailingkat@gmail.com
or through face book at ...BillandKat Russell.......
Day before yesterday was a long day. We made it around Cape Caution. Long day but we were able to sail. Yea! Still no sea mammals sighted. We anchored at a place called Goose Neck Bay, the sight of an old cannery. There was one other sailboat there when we arrived. A bit after we got settled a man from the old cannery came out, Mark, and introduced himself and invited us in to see the cannery. We were so tired we just couldn't do it. 10 hours around Cape C and we were tuckered out.
The next morning though we were all dressed in our warm clothes and ready to head out when we heard the weather, 30mph in the strait. We decided to stay put. A bit later in the morning, while the second batch of home made bread of the trip was rising the fellow on the only other boat in the bay rowed over and offered us some fresh crab. Nice older fellow. On his way solo "north." He gave us three crab which I quickly dispatched and plunged into a cooking pot. So spent the day baking bread and cookies and cleaning,cooking and cracking 3 big dungeoness crab.
In the afternoon after a few chores we took a dingy ride around the bay. There were bald eagles, some sort of osprey or golden eagle and a sea lion that followed us around the bay for a bit. Never too close but right off our tail. Once round the bay we stopped at the cannery and were met by Dave. Turns out he was the original instigator for getting a group of 20 Burnaby firemen to all go in on the old delapitated cannery. They have spent the last 7 years rebuilding walkways and dock areas and are now working on a caretakers loft.
Dave gave us a great tour of the place. Lots of history and info. When the canneries closed usually what they did was just pack up the men and lock the doors and go. Everything else stayed right where it was sitting. The firemen have done a bunch of rebuilding and shoring up and such but for the most part it is exactly as they found it. Complete with cook house, old chairs and couches, a pool table and shuffle board, a laundry room and dozens of cabins and dormitory rooms. He said the place is basically just for the firemen and their families. They come every year for work parties and then they come in the summer with kids and parents and all.
He was a wealth of information and it is just too bad we didn't have more time to pick his brain for local attractions. He did tell us about the big ol grizzly bear that was joined one spring by a sow who left her two year old cubs across a creek. And about a place nearby where there is an old fish camp complete with ancient native skeletons laying out on slabs amidst the boulders. Sounds cool though sort of creepy. He said there are places all over the coast where there are old native sites that are not in the books;pictographs and burial sights and middens and entire abandoned camps. We will keep our eyes open but we could spend a whole summer in the area and not stumble on the stuff this guy knows about. Nice folks all around and we wish the Burnaby firemen much luck and long summer days to enjoy.
5/10/10 First black bear of the trip.
Traveled well up Johnstone Strait till a turn off towards Port Harvey. Was a long day, more than 9 hours on the water. The strait was fine for a long time but about 2 started kicking p. By the time we pulled off to Boughey Bay off the Port Harvey cut off it was blowing 25. Immediately after pulling off the strait it got quiet. A 3 1/2 mile trip inland to secluded silent Boughey Bay. I had begun my bear watch earlier in the day sure that we were in bear country. As we pulled into Boughey I was at the bow getting ready to anchor and I saw a black spot. One of hundreds I had checked out that day. Then it moved. A nice, fat, lumbering black bear. He didn't seem to pay us any mind even when we pulled the anchor in to reset. This morning at 6am as we took off he was there again but more conservative in his sleepiness, He lumbered off as soon as Bill got on deck.
This morning we are off to the North through Blackfish Ssound. Going first past Robson Bight were the whales rub their bellies. We wont get close enough to see any belly rubs but maybe we may see some in transit nearby.
5/9/10 Miss my mom!
Happy Mothers Day. The first mothers day in my life away from my mom. I cant even really think about it too much or I start to cry. Better not to go there now. I did send a card from Friday Harbor and it should have gotten there in plenty of time.
After leaving Nanaimo relatively late we headed north along the east coast of Vancouver Island (the west side of the straits of Georgia. We didn't leave Nanaimo until after 11 so we didn't make it too far. We motored to Hornby Island and stayed at the same big bay we stayed on last time we came through here. Last time we ran into a pod of orcas right off the anchorage, no such luck this time. Also last time we were there the bay was full. Many many boats, lots of people playing on the beach and in the water. We took a short walk towards the campground and found a small town with a summer market that was bustling. This year there was only one other boat and we didn't even get close to them. We anchored using our new anchor. Yea! and had a good rest, The next morning we were up early and there was no wind so we decided to work on our main sail reef. We barely got the sail on before we left and we hadn't had a chance to make adjustments to the new reefs.
We left and headed north again with our eyes on Campbell River. We have never been along this eastern coast so it was all new. The weather was warm and sunny and we just put putted along. Just past Campbell River is Seymour Narrows of the famous now blown up Ripple Rock. The tides are pretty heavy duty and we just missed being able to get through. We should have done our sail work later. Oh well. We stayed the night at April Point Cove surrounded by a scattering of houses and a couple of fishing lodges and such. When i first dropped the anchor it didn't set so I brought it up. When it was within sight I noticed the shackle' was twisted oddly so I called Bill up and went to the helm. What I didn't see but Bill saw was we also had a cable across our anchor. Oops! We didn't see the cable sign at all until later. Even then it showed it in an odd place. Well no one came out to kick our ass and the RCMP didn't show up so we apparently didn't sever anything but it reminds us to be more careful. Even the books didn't show the cable run.
This morning we were up and headed to the narrows at 730. The narrows didn't amount to much and we saw only one other boat. It is so early in the season. Now we are nearly half way up Johnstone Strait the notorious "high wind area." There is little wind and no waves to speak of. I even managed to clean the whole boat and take a hand at the helm for an hour or so. Also got a chance to go through the book on our chart plotter. Frankly charts seem better.
5/7/10 anchors away! (literally)
Haven't written since leaving Pt T. From there we motored to Friday Harbor where we waited out a blow. We ended up spending two nights while the wind blew to 35 0r 40. Nothing really of mention at Fr H except I made it to an AA meeting, The 514 &389. Lovely meeting where they used a pack of cards, 52 AA big book questions. it was interesting and there was good sobriety in the room. I have managed to spend a half hour or so each day that we are underway reading grapevine and contemplating recovery.
After froday harbor we headed to BC where we cleared customs in Sydney then moved on to Montague Harbor for the night. We have been there before but both times later in the season. The place was essentially deserted. We were planning on going farther but the rain was imminent and we hadn't used our new Rocna anchor yet so we decided to anchor at Montague in the daylight for our first anchoring of the trip. The Rocna preformed startelingly well. I was at the winch and let out the chain. When we had about 125ft of chain out we backed up. Sowly. The chain tightened and then we snapped around hooked and set.!!
From Montague we headed through Discovery Passage at 5am headed for somewhere North. It had already been a long day when about 1pm we lost the new anchor. Yep, the winds were 15-20 and the waves were steep. Tide was changing we were burying the bow of the boat over and over. Stuff shaking loose. I was watching as the anchor plowed through the waves thinking that it was scooping too deep and wondering if we had it secured well enough. The next instant,it was just gone. Gone, gone, gone. Off the bow roller and traveling fast dow 400plus feet. It was startleing. This was a brand new 88# anchor. We installed it right before we left. We used the seizing wire from the old anchor with every intention of replacing it with new. Expensive mistake and frankly a little embarassing. The wire had worked loose on the shackle and off it went. An expensive mistake, lesson learned.
We had been hoping for a long day to put some miles behind us, aiming for Comox when we detoured to Nanimo hoping we could find an anchor. Any anchor. We stayed at the boat basin at 57$ a night that we wernt planning on spending. There was a marine store a 5 minute walk into town and amazingly they had Rocnas. But not one large enough for our boat. But after a telephone call there was one on its way to arrive friday morning. We decided two nights was worth having a decent anchor for the rest of the trip and so stayed another night. We kept busy with projects, Bill put our new locks on and I worked on a second set of sheets for our bed.
This mornig bright an early we were at the marine store shelling out $1000.00 we hadnt counted on spending. Aproximatly $1200.00 unplanned dollars spent in Nanimo. Oh well, an expensive lesson. The new anchor is chained and tied and wired and.....and we are motoring ever northward towards Campbell river. The weather is actually quite nice, blue sky and not as cold.
A little behind our predeicted schedule. I miss my dog immensly and I keep thinking maybe I am home sick. If one can be such just a few days from home. Maybe anticipatory homesickness? later.
'
5/2/2010 We did it!
Well everyone its official. We are full time cruisers! 5years almost to the day from when we bought Island Bound we left our home slip at Shilshole headed north. Mom met us for breakfast as did my dear friend Barbara. When we got back to the boat it only took a few minutes and a load of hugs and goodbyes with friends before we threw off the lines for the last time. At the last minute we added a new crew member a small teddy bear that belonged to my brother. I know he would be thrilled with this trip. The little bear has found a lovely spot in the salon with a view up into the cockpit. (I'll take good care of him mom.)
Our first day out was uneventful. The weather was grey and overcast breaking to sun part way and turning into a lovely sunny spring day in Pt Townsend by the time we docked at 2. The only problem we had was a slight leak at a deisel tank connection that was quickly solved with a couple of hose clamps. We met an old friend in the evening and picked up a couple of folding bikes we had recently purchased on craigs list from a seller in PT. Jum picked them up and ferried them to us at the marina in his motorcycle with side car. We took a quick ride to test them out. They need a little TLC and it felt a bit like Homer Simpson riding a clown bike but a few seat and handle bar adjustments and well, it was soon like riding a bike!
After breakfast with Jim we took off across the straits where right now the weather is better than forcast. We arnt sure where we will stop...going to go with the flow for a few days. We wont bore you with the day to day but will be posting on our blog whenever we have anything of interest to share. You can reach us there at ........
svislandbound.blogspot.com
Or via our emails which we will be catching up with in bits and spurts along the way.
Bill endlessbull@gmail.com
Kat sailingkat@gmail.com
or through face book at ...BillandKat Russell.......
Monday, May 17, 2010
5/17 Almost to Alaska
We have been out 17 days and are now poised to enter AK in two days sail. The last couple of days have been hard drives trying to get northward before some bad weather comes in. The trip has been mostly just getting used to being underway again. We have been working so hard the last year or so that we have been on the water very little. So mostly just getting used to a routine again. Early mornings, some long days, listen to the weather, plan a route, take a break and do a project or two, try to remember exactly how I managed to make bread while underway, tired eyes from looking out to the horizon.
We have seen very little marine or wildlife. A pod of dolphins took an early morning look see as we motored out of Ocean Falls at 6am, a black bear at a secluded anchorage, a few bald eagles. and a boat that stopped us to tell us they had just seen two pods right behind us with a new baby in tow...~sigh~ but no show for us. We have beat the humpback and gray whales north and the Orcas are always hit and miss. I am holding out hopes for some sightings soon and for being in the middle of the whale freeway when we head south again. We are in prime Grizzly territory now and will keep a watch out during low tides to see if we can spot one on the beach.
The whales don't come this far north this early because......IT IS COLD! I cant complain really, we have had exceptional weather. No days of rain in fact we have only been in a few drops a couple of times. But in spite of the dryness it is still early May at the 54th parallel. Long johns and gloves and hats and a full thermos. We came to Prince Rupert mostly for a chance to make some arrangements to have some parts for our heater shipped ahead of us to Ketchikan. We have a hydronic hot water and heater unit that decided to go south as we moved north. Luckily Bill was able to jerry rig it a bit but it wont last long like this. So we will make some calls and some emails and see if we can get parts sent ahead asap. Otherwise it could be a looong cold trip.
By the way, if you have never looked Alaska is a huge place. By boat it grows to gargantuan proportions. Honestly, we knew we were coming but were so busy getting ready we saved most of our planning till underway. We move about 6knots an hour which means it takes us ten hours to go 60 nautical miles. Alaska is huge. Even with a may departure we will be hard pressed to see half of what we hoped to see. And what is the fun if you are just pushing, pushing pushing. We like to go a day, stay a day...or two, go a day etc. So my job is to go through the books and narrow down our plans so we can experience Alaska but enjoy the trip too. Seriously, Google AK and look at a map, now divide it into 60mile pieces...... Ketchikan is way down here, Juneau is way up there, Skagway is way the heck up there and Glacier Bay is way over there and Sitka, well who the heck put it way over there? For clarity superimpose AK over say the trip we have taken so far -Seattle through Prince Rupert- lots of miles to go! Most cruisers stay through August and we have to be back to Washington and headed south in August. The only way really is to stay longer times in fewer places and enjoy the experience instead of wearing ourselves out trying to see everything.
So, wish us luck in finding parts for our heater, or send us some sweaters care of Island Bound, wilds of Alaska! Love you all, Kat (and Bill)
We have seen very little marine or wildlife. A pod of dolphins took an early morning look see as we motored out of Ocean Falls at 6am, a black bear at a secluded anchorage, a few bald eagles. and a boat that stopped us to tell us they had just seen two pods right behind us with a new baby in tow...~sigh~ but no show for us. We have beat the humpback and gray whales north and the Orcas are always hit and miss. I am holding out hopes for some sightings soon and for being in the middle of the whale freeway when we head south again. We are in prime Grizzly territory now and will keep a watch out during low tides to see if we can spot one on the beach.
The whales don't come this far north this early because......IT IS COLD! I cant complain really, we have had exceptional weather. No days of rain in fact we have only been in a few drops a couple of times. But in spite of the dryness it is still early May at the 54th parallel. Long johns and gloves and hats and a full thermos. We came to Prince Rupert mostly for a chance to make some arrangements to have some parts for our heater shipped ahead of us to Ketchikan. We have a hydronic hot water and heater unit that decided to go south as we moved north. Luckily Bill was able to jerry rig it a bit but it wont last long like this. So we will make some calls and some emails and see if we can get parts sent ahead asap. Otherwise it could be a looong cold trip.
By the way, if you have never looked Alaska is a huge place. By boat it grows to gargantuan proportions. Honestly, we knew we were coming but were so busy getting ready we saved most of our planning till underway. We move about 6knots an hour which means it takes us ten hours to go 60 nautical miles. Alaska is huge. Even with a may departure we will be hard pressed to see half of what we hoped to see. And what is the fun if you are just pushing, pushing pushing. We like to go a day, stay a day...or two, go a day etc. So my job is to go through the books and narrow down our plans so we can experience Alaska but enjoy the trip too. Seriously, Google AK and look at a map, now divide it into 60mile pieces...... Ketchikan is way down here, Juneau is way up there, Skagway is way the heck up there and Glacier Bay is way over there and Sitka, well who the heck put it way over there? For clarity superimpose AK over say the trip we have taken so far -Seattle through Prince Rupert- lots of miles to go! Most cruisers stay through August and we have to be back to Washington and headed south in August. The only way really is to stay longer times in fewer places and enjoy the experience instead of wearing ourselves out trying to see everything.
So, wish us luck in finding parts for our heater, or send us some sweaters care of Island Bound, wilds of Alaska! Love you all, Kat (and Bill)
Friday, April 16, 2010
Trying hard to get off the dock
This is Bill and Kat --
And this is our wonderful Kelly Peterson 44. We're still on the dock right now; about 3 weeks late for the beginning of cruise that will lead us to who knows where. Our plan is simply to find a place that's too dang good to leave. You know, warm water, warm weather, great people, great fishing and great sailing.....
We're flexible and our plans continue to change. Roughly we plan to do Alaska this summer, California next fall, Mexico next winter, and finally hit the islands the following spring.
We'll stay tuned and we'll try to keep this updated occasionally.
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