2012,
10-9 Vuda Point Marina, Viti Levu Island Fiji
From
Suva we sailed around the South West corner of Viti Levu Island to
our new home at Vuda Point Marina. The marina sits half way between
Nadi -home to the international airport- and Lautoka the second
largest city on the island. The marina started as a submarine harbor
during WWII and is different from any other marina we have ever been
to.
When
you enter from seaward you pass first the Boat Shed restaurant and
Bar sitting on the point. Then a big grassy area of picnic tables
and a large outdoor screen where they show movies in the evenings
three nights a week. Next you pass the coffee shop, the marina
offices, a marine store and a small but surprisingly well stocked
grocery store. Attached is a small laundry facility with three!!!
washing machines, the restroom/shower facilities, a taxi stand and
the security gate for the marina.
For
the marina itself imagine a cement pond in the shape of a “6”
with the tail of the six being a channel that was blasted out of the
coral reef that lines shore here. The circle of the six is the boat
basin where some four or five dozen boats are tied Med Moor style
stern or nose in to the cement quay. There is a cement path running
the perimeter of the boat basin along behind the boats and a boat
yard off to one side. The grounds are filled with tree's and plants
that teem with birds -starlings, parakeets, lorakeets, numerous types
of finches- and bright white long tailed Tropic birds swoop over the
reef. There is a path off one side that cuts through thick
vegetation to First Landing Resort where we are welcome to enjoy five
star amenities including a couple of restaurants and bars, a full
service spa and a pool.
Adjacent
to the boat basin is a section of marina ground that has been filled
with holes dug into the ground. This is cyclone territory and many
cruisers opt to bury their boats keels in a pit, prop tires around
the edges and then climb in and out by ladder. It's funny to see
them sitting here looking like someone is about to harvest a crop of
blue water boats. There are obviously boaters still living in some
and others have been prepared for the worst and then left to fend for
themselves.
That
is why we are here, Vuda Point is reputed to be the best cyclone hole
in this area of the South Pacific. For those not in a pit the marina
offers some other unusual safety measures. In the event of a cyclone
all of the boats in the marina will switch to stern to on the quay
tying off to the heavy rings and chains attached to the edges of our
little cement pond. From the bow of each boat will run the typical
heavy duty anchor chain sans anchor. Every boats' chain will attach
to a central underwater tie off point, wagon wheel style pulled off
slightly from the quay. Additionally the marina deploys a breakwater
made up of a line of airplane tires that is designed to close off
the channel leading out of the marina and through the reef. This
breakwater is essential in that it should cut down on the the surge
that will inevitably try to work it's way into the marina. Once the
breakwater is in place and we are stern too off the quay it will be
impossible to leave the marina and almost impossible to leave the
boat -we will be much further off the quay in preparation for an
actual cyclone. This is the best that can be found in the South
Pacific and we are betting our boat on it. The obvious problem is
that if any of the boats in the marina have a problem they could and
will effect other boats in the marina -like a pinball in play.
Our
plan is to monitor the weather, cruise when we can and flee to safety
when anything threatens. But getting home will actually be the least
of our concerns. In order to really be ready for what may come there
is a great deal of preparation to be done. Our sails will have to
stripped and stowed and the bimini and dodger will be removed as well
as our four solar panels. Everything that can be stowed below will
be and anything that won't come off will be lashed down. Once the
dodger is off we will be vulnerable to rain coming in through places
we have never experienced before.
Oh
and the rain, it will rain and rain and rain. At the same time the
rain is coming down it will be hot - hot and muggy hot. Black mold
will be growing on the inside of the boat from the heat and the
humidity and during the guaranteed stormy weather every door, hatch
and port will be dogged down tight. A new acquaintance warned me
yesterday that even the cockroaches suffer from the cyclones.
Desperate for dry land they will come scampering up our mooring lines
looking for a dry home. Ewwwwww! But we cruisers are a pretty
tenacious bunch. I have talked to couples who have prepared four
times in one season for a coming hurricane or cyclone. Most have
never seen winds above 50mph! I'm counting on that statistic proving
out.
Again
the upside is that between the weather that is surely coming our
extended stay will allow us to discover a Fiji most travelers never
experience. Fiji's cruising choices are wide -multiple island groups,
huge barrier reefs, vibrant cities and unspoiled beeches, exquisite
snorkeling and world class diving- with enough to do and see to keep
us busy for a years.
Travel
is all about experiencing life in a new way and Vuda Point promises
to give us plenty of new experiences. From the moment we motored
into the cut I've had a great feeling about this place. It felt like
home to me like nothing else has since we first moved into Shilshole
Bay Marina. Already half of the staff knows us by name and we are
meeting our neighbors more every day. We've begun working our way
through the to-do list and Gordon the Gekko seems to have settled
into his new job with us as bug control patrol.
If you are in Vuda Point now are you near to La Cueca. ? A Columbia 40 yawl
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